1. Pay a visit to a distillery
No Scottish isle has as many whiskey distilleries as the venerable ‘Whisky Isle,' so visit one of its nine. Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig entice in the south with whitewashed Victorian grandeur, while namesake Bowmore in the island capital is equally ancient, plus it has a town. On the Rhinns of Islay peninsula, Bruichladdich is located on the opposite side of Loch Indaal, while Kilchoman is located close inland from Machir Bay on Islay's north shore. On the Sound of Islay, Ardnahoe recently joined its brothers Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila.
Tours and tastings are available at each distillery. Make careful to try a few different ones since they all differ, and you may just find something new. My favorite café is in Ardbeg, which also has a fantastic store. The staff is skilled at helping newcomers feel at ease. Kilchoman is the place to go if you want something small-scale; its manufacturing is wrapped around a functioning farm.
2. Visit Bowmore's Distillery
The whitewashed beauty that is the island’s capital. It has its own fine distillery, which also warms the local pool, as well as a variety of small stores, cafés, and restaurants.
Its most remarkable structure is the 'Round Church,' which is believed to have been constructed in such a peculiar form to prevent the devil from hiding in a corner.
Bowmore is a wonderful location to wander about, and since it lies right on the ocean, the sea salt taste is never far away. If you like whiskey, The Lochside Hotel's dramatic whisky bar and waterfront terrace are a must-see. I try to avoid The Lochside since it sells my favorite malt, the sublime Ardbeg 17-year-old. Because it's no longer produced, there aren't many locations in the world that sell it as a dram.
3. Get your hiking boots on
Islay may lack Munro mountains, but it does offer a diverse variety of treks, many of which are accessible even in the winter. A stroll along Big Strand, a 12-kilometer stretch of sandy coastline, is energizing. Pushing around from the southern point in quest of Soldiers Granite, a stunning rock pinnacle that resembles Orkney's Old Man of Hoy, is even more spectacular.
The 131m American Monument dedicated to the brace of troopships that sadly went down here in stormy seas during the First World War is a moving walk out to the Mull of Oa peninsula. Beinn Bheigeir, at 491m, is the highest of Islay's seven Marilyns.
It's a bit of a trek in and out, so you'll need to figure out transportation there and back. As with any hike in Scotland, make sure you have the proper equipment, including a map and compass, as well as someone in your group who knows how to use them. Also, don't forget to let someone know where you're going.
4. Go on a boat ride
The best way to follow in the footsteps of the Lords of the Isles and understand Islay's geography and history is to go out on the water since arriving here by sea was the only way for thousands of years.
On its fleet of boats, Islay Sea Experiences offers a variety of excursions, ranging from wildlife sailings in search of sea eagles, otters, and whales to foodie-focused seafood adventures. The hand-dived scallops, grilled on a barbeque as you enjoy the sights and sounds of the Special Area of Conservation, are a highlight. The brave may take to the water in a strong RIB in pursuit of the Gulf of Corryvreckan, the world's third-biggest whirlpool and the stuff of Scottish maritime mythology.
5. Kayak through the coves
Kayak If you want to go out on the blue Atlantic, Wild Islay is the place to go. After a short skill check and a safety briefing at Port Ellen, you'll go off to explore the island's wildlife-rich and endlessly beautiful shoreline. You have the option of doing it in half a day or all day.
In my experience, you'll want to spend more time on the water unless you've never kayaked before and made the unpleasant error of paddling too much with your forearms.
6. Give the gin a shot
Although Islay is known for its whiskey distilleries, the islanders have taken note of the growing popularity of Scottish gins. A botanist by Bruichladdich is already well-known and accessible in a number of pubs outside of the island. Nerabus Islay Gin, a relative newcomer, is more specialized. Its heather-infused gin is made in small batches and tastes crisp and clear. It's finest served with a slice of lime and a sprig of rosemary. It also has a pleasant little distillery and store.
7. Make your way to Jura
A gloomy, profoundly mountainous beast, Islay's neighbor. It's a lot wilder than Islay, with just one main road, a distillery, a store, a hotel, a bar, and a population of approximately 6,000 - red deer, that is!
Fewer than 200 hardies (human) people live in isolated Jura, which may be reached by a short boat ride from Islay, in a country devastated by the 18th and 19th century Highland Clearances.
George Orwell was one of the notable visitors. After almost dying in a boating accident in Corryvreckan, he wrote 1984 in a home that still exists. Lussa Gin is a newcomer to the scene, and it makes a fantastic small-batch spirit.
The Paps of Jura, on the other hand, is a distinct trio of rounded mountains with steep scree-sliced slopes that provide a genuine challenge.
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